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Desi
Wear
Entrepreneur Manny Brar is a risk taker and definitely not shy
about it, although he believes it's not the norm. “Indians
are the most affluent minority group in North America and the
U.K., but we're also the shyest people,” Brar said.
Brar, along with brother Jas and friend Suvin Malik have been
running the enormously successful Desi Wear clothing line for
the past decade. “Anyone can wear our stuff, and it identifies
to all Indians. We're a branded logo, and what we're doing essentially
is socially conscious chill wear.”
Not that the road to success hasn't been bumpy.
“I'm a Jat Sikh Punjabi- you try and tell your parents
that your going to start your own clothing line. They thought
I was crazy!” After graduating from McGill with a degree
in Finance, Brar work as an investment banker for three years.
“I decided this was what I really wanted to do. I bet if
I'd been doing this right out of high school, it would have been
a lot bigger than it is right now.” On the other hand, the
risks were enormous and a formal education essential. “This
business could also have flopped. Every day I would wake up and
think, 'Am I doing the right thing?' Then I'd come into the office
and see 10 or 15 orders from around the world.”
Desi Wear started out as a hobby that Brar and Co. pursued on
weekends and during summer hiatus. He now has ten full-time employees
responsible for the website, as well as design and production.
“So what started out as a very small, grassroots thing in
Toronto has now expanded worldwide,” Brar said, adding,
“we have no boundaries.”
The secret to Desi Wear's success is the personal, hand's on
approach taken to every order. The main showroom is based in Oakville
and production is done in-house with a vertically-integrated plan.
Long delays are unacceptable, and back orders don't go beyond
a 2 to 3 day waiting period.
Brar admits that he's not a fashion designer, but that his knowledge
of fabrics and trends has matured. “We're inspired by the
East-West fusion, dreams, songs, even slang. At the beginning,
we were all about the grassroots culture, 'it's not just about
black and white.' Just with the logo out there,” Brar said.
“It wasn't until we started going for that whole vintage-retro
based Indian theme with a message other than 'Desi Wear' that
the line blew up. If the fashion climate changes next year, we'll
alter our theme.”
Unlike many of his contemporaries, Brar said he intentionally
avoided religious and cultural segregation, which is why he never
designed a t-shirt with a khanda or an om symbol. “Our guideline
from day one has been to unite, not segregate the groups. This
isn't a Hindu thing or a Punjabi thing...Desi Wear stands for
unity.” Brar said that his cultural influences are wide
ranging, which is why consumers from other communities are endorsing
the product line. “As all good young fashion companies,
we're going to mimic the pop culture with our South Asian influences
in mind. That's our primary goal.”
He's inspired by Toronto's unique multicultural vision, which
is one of the reason's why Desi Wear remained a Canadian company.
“I love Toronto, I love that we're based here and that
we started out here. We're completely inspired by growing up in
a predominantly Desi population in the GTA,” Brar said.
He revealed that early research indicated that 80% of sales were
coming from outside Canada, in the United States and the United
Kingdom, despite 80% of the advertising budget being spent in
Canada. “Desi's in Canada, especially in Toronto, are pretty
confident about their identity, Americans seem hungrier for a
stamp.” He said the website gets daily hits from places
such as Kansas, New Mexico, Iowa and California requesting orders.
“Toronto has a very mature South Asian culture. We know
what we are, we know what we want to do and may not need that
'label' because India's everywhere.” Brar added that because
Desi Wear is a local company, they face additional challenges
in regards to mainstream success.
“Many artists aren't huge in Toronto until they go to the
States, that's what's happening to us now.” Brar said that
this mentality was disappointing because the clothing line, despite
being driven by South Asians wouldn't be considered “legit”
in the Indian market until it reached the mainstream consumer.
Brar also finds it ironic that the same people who refused to
wear anything with the “desi” logo on it a few years
ago now want to wear the clothing line since “Brown became
the new Black.”
He admits to having detractors, but also said that they never
really had any valid arguments or complaints against the actual
product line. “FUBU was a four letter word that identifies
an entire community. That's what DESI stands for.”
Ethnic-inspired clothing is a growing niche market, and Brar
admits he doesn't know if it will remain a long standing trend
or a fashion fad.
Despite the growing competition, he encourages anyone who wants
to enter the business. “We know the hardships we've gone
through to get here and it's not easy. I'm not worried about my
competition,” Brar said. “I'd only call it a rip off
if someone took our exact product line and copied it. That's our
intellectual property and we've laboured hard for it.”
Today, Brar is grateful to friends and supporters such as Bend
it Like Beckham director Gurinder Chadha, whom he met at a SASA
conference two years ago. During the Toronto film release, Chadha
wore a custom made soccer jersey and has introduced celebrities
Parminder Nagra, Kal Penn and Aishwarya Rai to the line. Brar
said that Chadha plans on incorporating the signature line in
her upcoming projects. Her support has been phenomenal. “If
it wasn't for Gurinder, we wouldn't be here today.” Desi
Wear has also secured an exclusive contract with the makers of
the groundbreaking film, American Desi. “We have a deal
to produce all the custom clothing for the film's sequel,”
Brar said excitedly.
Despite their growing popularity, Desi Wear remains true to their
grassroots cause. “All of our clothing is completely sweatshop-free
and is made in North America,” Brar said. “Our pricing
scheme's pretty decent- $25 for a t-shirt. Of course, a lot of
Indians will say 'Oh, I can do that for $10.' Besides producing
unbelievable quality, we believe in an international minimum wage.”
Brar said that most of the Fruit of the Loom shirts are made in
China where people earn between $2 and $10 per month. Desi Wear
manufacture through American Apparel, a company based in New York,
Los Angeles and Montreal. “They (American Apparel) are considered
the industry standard,” Brar said. “We've visited
their shops in New York City, where people get paid $12 to $14
an hour.”
As for the near future, look for Desi Wear to hit a retailer
near you. They are currently set to launch the line at Square
One, Fairview Mall, and at City of Angels on Queen Street. Brar
said that the company will continue to produce “smart, trendy,
chilled out club wear.”
I'm not really catering to the hip hop culture so much anymore-
t-shirts are so in right now and I personally want to wear a cool,
fitted t-shirt to a club. That's what 85% of our line is right
now.”
Don't forget to check out a Baby Desi line, possibly by this
Christmas. “The demands there,” Brar laughed. “We'll
have bib's, suits...it's gonna be our stuff for cook pukka-walla
kids!”
Jasmin Sandhu
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